Runners A length of tubular webbing or perlon rope is easily tied into a loop forming one of the most versatile of natural protections — the runner. Normal single length runners can be constructed from about six feet of rope of webbing. Double and triple length runners require approximately
10 to 14 feet respectively. Traditionally, these loops have
been tied with a Ring Bend which is simple but must be constantly
watched because of the slippery tendency of nylon web and rope
to untie themselves, especially when wet. A more secure knot
that can be tied once for the life of the runner and can be
used for both the perlon rope and thick tubular webbing is
the Double Fisherman's Bend or Grapevine Knot (Figure 1).
Runners are carried over the shoulder and under the opposite
arm. In use they are looped over or around anything in sight;
blocks, bulges, bushes, chockstones and chicken heads, knobs,
spikes, flakes and trees. For this reason a variety in both
material and lengths of runners should be carried. All tubular
webbing from 1/2" through 1" and rope diameters from
5 or 6 mm through about 8 mm are useful in fitting varying
situations. The smallest sizes (1/2" and 5 mm) will provide
interim protection in tight threading situations. The loop
strength of Chouinard 9/16" web and 7 mm rope are adequate
for most protection needs and 1 inch and 8 mm are bombproof.
A doubled runner will normally have twice the loop strength
indicated.
A common mistake is not having enough runners along; a dozen is not too many. Hero loops or small runners can be used for the fine work in tying off rock spikes, nubbins, rugosites and twigs (9/16" web is preferred for protection). Large blocks and chockstones can be tied off with a chain of runners looped together or with double or triple runners which can be carried over the shoulder in loops of two or three coils, kept even by a carabiner.
Historically, runners have been commonly used in reducing the rope drag produced by out of the way protection. When climbing clean this role of smoothing out the line of the climbing rope behind the leader is even more important because the addition of a runner will help protect nuts from being bounced or jerked out of the crack by the climbing rope. A runner makes a nut more secure.
Sometimes runner placements themselves are insecure. For instance a placement that would easily hold the heavy downward pull of a fall might be very susceptible to a light side pull from the climbing rope. Another runner can be attached but sometimes the security can be greatly improved by wedging a pebble or nut into the crack above the runner to hold it into place. At other times extra security can be obtained by jamming the knot of the runner into place. Placements on the slippery bulges might be improved by tying a slip knot in one end of the runner, then cinching it up as in Figure 2. In extra ticklish situations, British climbers have used even adhesive tape to hold runners in place on small rock spikes.
Clean climbing demands vision and an awareness of the rock. On the equipment side, runners form the basis for protection. They were all that was available to clean climbing Englishmen before the advent of portable and artificial chockstones. In a manner, they are the foundation of the modern clean climber's repertoire.